The Apple Pan: Revisiting a Los Angeles Staple

By revrev // // August 2nd, 2009 // Restaurants, Reviews

If you are ever accosted by a tourist on the streets of Los Angeles (and yes, accosted is usually the correct word) and asked where to find the best burger in Los Angeles, you better tell them to head on down Pico to the Apple Pan. Now I can’t say (convincingly) that this is my absolute favorite burger in LA, but I can tell you that very few establishments scream Los Angeles Burger Haven quite like the Apple Pan.

The place has been around since 1947, and hasn’t changed much – with the exception of a couple new menu items, thoughtfully noted with the date they were introduced. Some of the patrons don’t look too far removed from the Apple Pan of yore, though the younger crowd is just as eager to get at those tasty burgers. I could probably write an entire thesis paper about the wonders of staying old school in order to market to an increasingly younger crowd, but this is a burger blog….

Let’s talk about burgers – deliciously crumbly ground beef and nothin’ else burgers. The Apple Pan might just have some of the best burger patties on earth. I really can’t find anything wrong with them. And they’ll cook it medium rare for you if you like, but be prepared for a burger that doesn’t stick together so well, since it’s a pretty thin patty. The steakburger is slathered with Apple Pan’s infamous relish, which is sort of a tangy combination of thinned ketchup and pickle relish. And while I don’t usually go for relish on my burgers, this stuff will leave you wondering how you ever ate a burger without it. They’ll also toss on a hand-picked lettuce leaf and fresh tomato for you, but cheese will run you a little extra (I go without it anyway).

What got me most about this particular trip to the Apple Pan is how incredibly efficient this place is. If you dig around the internet for reviews, you’ll hear the same thing over and over: don’t go during peak hours, unless you feel like standing in line. The restaurant is tiny, consists of only one U-shaped counter, and maybe 20 seats. If those coveted seats aren’t open, you stand with the rest of the mouth-waterers in the back until one opens up. But here’s the thing: when I dropped by, on a Saturday afternoon, the place was packed, and I was still in and out (no pun intended) in less than 30 minutes. The counter waiter asks you without hesitation when you sit down what you’d like to eat, and before you can even finish telling him, he’s already run across the counter to wait on someone else. I admit I was incredibly confused by this. There is no possible way he actually heard me give him the entire order, and yet he still brought exactly what I ordered. I’m still amazed. Admitedly, this made for a very rushed and uncomfortable lunch, but it’s all part of the game here. It’s as though we never really left the great depression, and businesses are doing everything they can to get as many happy customers through their doors as possible (oh wait, um, are we back in 1947 now?).

Either way, a trip to the Apple Pan is an amazing journey, and one that I recommend you take often. Remember, it’s closed on Mondays. And be sure to treat yourself to a piece of pie. It’s worth it.