Review: BoHo in Hollywood: a newcomer makes a worthy showing

By revrev // // June 13th, 2009 // Restaurants, Reviews

I wasn’t really sure what all the fuss was about: how could a restaurant really call itself Hollywood’s first and only gastropub? It’s a bit of a lofty claim, but then Hollywood is a notoriously difficult place to find a decent beer, let alone a perfect burger. I, for one, though, applaud this place for filling a sadly vacant space in Hollywood, nestled right next to the Arclight Cinemas (the world’s most incredible theater complex), in the space where failed steak joint Charcoal used to be. Also, does anyone really think we need another mediocre sushi restaurant? Yeah, I’m talking to you, Club Sushi.

The first thing you’ll notice when you enter BoHo is the incredibly welcoming atmosphere, a sort of a cross between your dad’s study (no, not your father’s office) and the Elk’s club. Big cushy chairs, mismatched and comfy, with dark rustic wood decor. You might also notice the enormous row of beer taps, all craft-brews, and mostly local to California and the west coast.

Of course you’ll also notice the tempting menu options. A small plates list with twist: fried oyster po’ boy sliders, and pork belly with maple jus, just to name a couple options. You’ll probably also pass a few diners chowing through the “Pile O’ Ribs,” a dish that lives up to its name.

But then there’s the burger. The menu reads:

BoHo Burger Delux, cambazola cheese, caramelized onion, heirloom tomato, dill pickles, Thousand Island, fries, aioli

I don’t know about you, but I was caught off guard here: Thousand Island? This isn’t In-N-Out (oh, wait, that’s special sauce, sorry). And why would the burger have Thousand Island and aioli? Confused, I decided to just go with the flow, order it up, and see what happens.

What happened next was slightly serendipitous while being mildly disturbing. My burger did not come as described. In fact, I’m pretty sure not a tomato was in sight. Nor was there any Thousand Island. The aioli was served on the side, along with a homemade ketchup. And there was lettuce on the burger. I admit I don’t like at all when the food I receive is significantly different from what I order, but in this instance, it actually worked out for the best.

The meat is not your typical burger patty; it crumbles. This wasn’t a bad thing, necessarily, since it nicely offset the thick and sturdy bun, which was sadly a little stale. The downside to the crumble is that, as Sinosoul pointed out, there’s no charred crust, the tasty goodness that makes a rare burger a rare treat. Similarly, the burger seemed under-seasoned, although the meaty flavor came through well. I wasn’t especially happy with the pickles, but the lettuce and creamy cheese balanced this burger well.

In all, I’d say the dining experience at BoHo is better than the burger, but it’s a worthy entrant to the Hollywood scene. It’s not cheap in the slightest – weighing in at a whopping 15 dollars with fries – but then, it’s Hollywood. Heck, I’d go back just for the beer list.

BoHo
Website: http://www.bohorestaurant.com/
6372 W. Sunset Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90028
323.465.8500